Sardinia between magic and colours
When you think of Sardinia, you think of its sea, crystal clear waters that, depending on the seabed, take on colours ranging from turquoise to aqua green, from very light blue to the most intense cobalt blue, but Sardinia hides within itself small pearls that are discovered little by little, like doors that open one inside the other and make images appear that you do not forget, that can be unique scenarios for our most beautiful moments and that can make many days of our lives special. Small lanes that climb between coloured houses, narrow and so high that they touch each other in the background of the blue sky in Bosa, the view of the open sea from the "Bastioni" of Alghero, the most romantic promenade that the town of Catalan origin offers to those who walk along it from the old town centre, all narrow lanes and shops; the breathtaking view of the Sella del Diavolo from the Poetto beach and the port from the Castello district of Cagliari; small houses that are transformed into such realistic images that you can hypnotize your eyes in the murals of Orgosolo, a small village in the truest Barbagia; Nuraghi, Fonti and Pozzi Sacri, archaeological sites shrouded in the mystery of time, alternative destinations to the beaches, which are also numerous - different in colour and shape - and chase each other along the Sardinian coast showing themselves to be among the most beautiful and varied in our splendid Italy.
South-West and West, wild coasts where in spring the fields seem like blossoming moors and the scents of the land and sea spread intense in open and solitary spaces, beaches, sand dunes and black basalt cliffs beaten by the wind. To the North West the coast suddenly appears with the white cliffs of Bosa and continues, along the panoramic road that leads to Alghero, with the red trachyte rocks that rise among the broom, euphorbias and Mediterranean scrub; at the foot of the cliffs, always the sea, "last but not least", the protagonist of the landscape, sparkling or motionless depending on the presence or absence of the mistral that dominates and sculpts the landscape. Motionless in the wind are the falcons that stand out for their screeching and, at times, sudden, the wingspan of the griffon vultures suspended between the cliffs, the waves and the crests of the mountains of the woodland territory. The North opens up to the view with the white beaches of Alghero, hidden among the pines and eucalyptus trees, which follow one another towards Capo Caccia, Stintino and then the Costa Paradiso, flashes of blue between red and pink rocks, finally Santa Teresa di Gallura and the boulders shaped by the wind and time that seem to stop on this island, as when you take a breath and dive into the seabed of the reserve of Asinara or the archipelago of La Maddalena; blue and silver clouds of tapered or isolated tapered or isolated torpedoes and slow-swimming rays often appear on the green bottoms of poseidonia and coloured hedgehogs peeping out between the ravines of the rocks and the sand. North-East: the green of the golf courses is as intense and lively as the colour of the sea, ranging from emerald to sea water blue; elite harbours, enchanted beaches among winding inlets and villas hidden in the Mediterranean maquis that smells of myrtle and helichrysum.
Here it seems that the island is less rugged and wild, but the road that connects the most characteristic and touristy villages is no less winding than the panoramic view of Alghero and splendid views of green, turquoise or blue sea open only after curves and curves that impose a slow rhythm, cadenced like the waves of the sea on the sand of the splendid bays that gradually meet; Baja Sardinia, Porto Cervo, Porto Rotondo, Poltu Quatu offer enchanted beaches to be experienced preferably in June and late September, when nature takes over again and offers breathtaking scenery to seal in a snap the image of special and unforgettable moments. The heart of the island appears in all its proud beauty, among woods of holm oaks and white calcareous rocks that rise up and offer themselves to the sight of the villages of the Baronia, divided between mountains and sea; in Barbagia - where still in the villages you can see figures of women in costume, flashes of colours, orange, blue and gold, haughty glances on porcelain faces - the villages and the views of the little frequented streets are the background of the Gennargentu, the most important mountain range of the island; the red wines of Oliena and Mamoiada, as powerful as the men who produce them, the tasty pecorino cheeses of Fonni and Gavoi, the carasau bread of Nuoro and Ovodda and the "cicci" bread of Desulo constitute the soul of this part of Sardinia, where following expert guides on paths that climb between ancient boulders and rocks you can reach the nuragic village of Tiscali, between Oliena and Dorgali, the canyon of Su Gorroppu, between Orgosolo and Urzulei or descend into the Lanaittu valley to the source of Su Gologone.
Cagliari, a city to live all year round, warmth and clear skies in winter, warm, yes in summer, but the waters of the Poetto are just a stone's throw from the old town centre for a dive that makes you feel reborn. A city of sea and art, ancient and baroque art, streets that climb up towards the castle, the old quarter bordered by high walls and that can also be reached by panoramic lifts; the view that sweeps, around the sea, the flamingos, the salt pans.
Nora, a Phoenician, Punic and Roman city, has a particular charm with its columns and the ruins of the houses on the seashore; the coast then offers the archaeological ruins of Bithia and still promontories that go deep into the blue sea, the lighthouse of the head of the wind and the beach of Tuarredda with very clear water between turquoise and green water. Antas, a Roman Punic temple in the Iglesiente area, suddenly appeared to me on a rainy day, framed by a rainbow, the beauty of the hills around it as green as the Irish heath and the magical atmosphere of the legends of the Sardus Pater Babai; a stop not to be forgotten after the water-green sea of Cala Domestica and the mining ruins of Sulcis, images of a world lived and unknown to most people, like the entrance to the Porto Flavia tunnel, imposing and mysterious seen from the sea.
Piscinas and Pistis, beaches dominated by white sand dunes and wild lilies, the sea that laps the shore and changes its shape every day. Here the always winding streets are of a wild and solitary beauty for most of the year. From the Green Coast to the beaches of Porto Alabe and Bosa the route is not along the coast, because the volcanic past of the island emerges in its basalt cliffs and if we are lucky enough to be able to see them from the sea, on a dinghy, then we could enjoy the spectacle of the cobalt blue colour of its deep waters and, near the cliffs of Capu Nieddu, that of the hexagonal black basalt columns that sink into the sea leaving those who dive to discover them breathless. Landscapes of hills and plains, small ponds follow one another along the road that leads to Oristano and then back to the lower coast, made of sandstone shaped by the wind, through small and characteristic seaside resorts towards Bosa.
Bosa is a colourful town on a hill on which stands the old Malaspina Castle; its walls have held up well to the signs of time and often host events related to art and music that give the place moments of new life. Bosa and its Conce, historical buildings that once gave prestige and economic support to the inhabitants, together with fishing and in particular lobsters, still renowned today. Bosa and its churches: S. Pietro Extra Muros, the charm of the Romanesque style, hidden among colourful olive and citrus groves in the mild winter of this town; the church of Carmine in Piedmontese Baroque style, whose façade is outlined by high bands of red trachyte typical of the area; the palatine church dedicated to the Madonna di Regnos Altos; the Cathedral which stands out as the backdrop behind the Ponte Vecchio with its dome of coloured majolica. Bosa and its festivities, secular and desecrating like those for Carnival or religious and scenic ones like the Feast of the Madonna del Mare, with the regatta of boats carrying the statue of the Madonna, and the feast of the Madonna di Regnos Altos in September with the processions of laymen and religious people among the narrow streets leading from the lower town to the castle, among small altars decorated with beautiful flowers. Festivities that always end in magnificent evenings of good food and wine and the great hospitality of its inhabitants, in the open air tables in the streets of Sa Costa, the high and perched district of Bosa.
Alghero and its second language, the Sardinian dialect that owes so much to Catalan, its Bastions on the seafront and its alleys full of life and colours, above all coral red, the one that has always dominated the goldsmith's art of this city. Alghero is one of the few cities that maintain almost intact its walls and towers, scattered in several points of the city, among all, on the sea at the centre of the evening nightlife, that of San Giovanni. The coasts of Sardinia are linked to each other by the towers built for defence against the Saracens, like a long wireless telephone, and they follow one another dominating the sea surrounding the island, still connecting to the many Nuraghi scattered throughout the territory: in beautiful view of the hills dominating the Sardinian countryside or hidden by the cistus and cork oaks, or still incorporated into the houses and become special cellars for fragrant malvasia or ruby red cannonau. Places that are unique in their multiplicity, that know how to give rise to deep emotions to those who have the chance to discover them, so much so as to leave an indelible mark on the heart: Sardinia sickness. The desire to come back is very strong, to feel every time a stronger, closer involvement with the territory and with "the Sardinian people" leads you to want to know more and more and always in different ways our island that, although open to tourists and the world, still hides a secret and wild heart, like the blackberries along the dry stone walls between the vineyards and olive groves.